Wedding Photography Tips – How to Maintain Ambient Background Light: Bouncing Your Flash

Weddings by their nature have very beautiful background scenery. This scenery is planned well and hang up up for a long time ahead of the big event. For these reasons we should include it within our photos, that is, not just have our subject in the photos lit up by our flash but everything behind in shadows. This is known as the miner’s light. We also shouldn’t be just shooting in elevated ISO’s the full wedding with no flash. This is a good technique for certain photos, but some times this will make the images look like they were cropped from a problem. Another reason we shouldn’t use this technique for all our photos happens because sometimes there is certainly fast action that individuals have to catch where we do not want the themes face out of focus. So how do we shoot in low light situations and have the backgrounds visible, but our subjects also properly exposed, without harsh shadows plus sharp focus? The answer is bouncing our flashes.

To properly expose your wedding reception couple, instead of have your flash producing harsh shadows on the face, you need a bigger light source. Remember, the higher the source of light, the softer the shadows. That is why by using an umbrella the shadows are so nice and soft, the umbrella is the source of light in fact it is a lot bigger than your flash. This may be the way it’s and there exists no way around it. These little cups which you put over your flash tend not to increase the risk for shadows softer, they just balance out the sunlight in order that there’s not any hot spots. Other light modifiers the truth is do increase the size of your light. Examples of this can are the big Tupperware looking things the thing is, or else a big bounce card. But wouldn’t the shadows be even softer having a bigger light? How about one how big a wall or ceiling? This is what bouncing your flash is: turning the head of your flash to ensure that the sunlight first bounces off a wall, ceiling, people, etc., before hitting your subjects. This increases the dimensions of your source of light. I like to bounce my flash off corners if at all possible, the corners the location where the walls meet the ceiling produces some very nice results. If you have an assistant, make certain your assistant is bouncing the light for you personally. Now you simply have to concern yourself with your camera emailing your assistant’s lights. If it’s wireless, otherwise you are connected by way of a cable, not an issue. If it can be through Nikon or Canon incorporated system, you just must make certain your flashes can easily see the other person.

Now bouncing your flash to function in low light situations you need to do should have your ISO bumped around 1600. This is a huge difference from 3200 and, with cameras nowadays, the grain in 1600 isn’t too noticeable. Also, you should shoot 2.8 to find the ambient light. This will be the big bonus of bouncing your flash, besides having softer shadows, would be that the background exposed determined by your ambient light. Adjust your camera settings so that you are underexposing the ambient light 2-3 stops for good results. This way, the flash properly exposes your subjects as they are the dominant element with the photo, and also the background can also be exposed, but somewhat dimmer rather than competing for attention. Don’t worry about your shutter speed being below 60 because the flash will freeze the action. If people are dancing fast, and you really are shooting the wedding couple plus you’ve got the flash bouncing to reveal their faces you will find that the flash froze the action on the faces and that they in sharp focus. The people without anyone’s knowledge could possibly be blurred being that they are being exposed with the ambient light. This makes for a lot of intriquing, notable and creative photos. On the oasis my setting might be ISO 1600, f2.8 as well as a 10 or 20-shutter speed. Please remember as you are shooting 2.8 you may should compose your images, otherwise pose your subjects, to ensure that what you look for to be focus is definitely in focus!

Try bouncing your flash in the next wedding you shoot to see if you’d prefer the outcome. Thanks for reading!